First-time visitors tend to associate Buenos Aires with tango, steak, and wine—that trifecta of local passions—but the Argentine capital’s French buildings, Italian food, and Spanish nightlife also tell the story of a city with one foot in Latin America and the other in Europe. Beyond the “Paris-of-South-America” clichés, this is a city of world-class art, exceptional cuisine, and internationally acclaimed design. After a 2001 crisis battered the nation’s economy and the value of its currency, B.A. became one of the world’s few high-gloss/low-cost travel destinations; the resulting influx of visitors and expats transformed the city, in some ways arguably saving it from an even worse downturn. In recent months, however, acute inflation has confounded the country’s once-robust recovery. The days of Buenos Aires as a bastion of bargains have passed—at least for now—yet its physical and cultural charms have never been more evident.

Buenos Aires was rebuilt in the early 20th century to look a bit like Paris, Madrid, Rome and Liverpool. Part of its appeal and romance is due to its resembling a faded, time-worn version of all these, and a stroll round San Telmo or the cobbled streets in Palermo Viejo feels far more Old World than anything on offer in European cities. Related Articles Where to experience tango in Buenos Aires The shady plazas, huge parks, smoky corner cafés and newspaper kiosks provide all you need for a pleasant metropolitan experience. Do as Borges did and explore the barrios by foot. Despite the heavy round-the-clock traffic, BA is still a good city to walk round, discovering bookshops off Avenida Corrientes, pausing in tiny neighbourhood bars in Congreso, and mooching around boutiques in Palermo. At night, the city has a different face. It is brazen and just a little bit badly behaved and club nights, parties, cocktail hours and even coffee-cup confessionals seem to go on for ever. Choosing your neighbourhood is easy: Las Cañitas is smart and square, Palermo is trendy and trying hard, and San Telmo is renascent and increasingly subsidised by the pink peso. All are great for a night on the town. TOP FIVE SIGHTS Recoleta Cemetery This marble-walled necropolis is unmissable. Like a Buenos Aires in miniature, it has backstreets, leafy plazas, broken tombs, polished statues - and you can easily get lost in the labyrinth. Pilgrims come to see Evita's family mausoleum, but those belonging to Independence hero Manuel Dorrego, his executioner Juan Lavalle and patrician family the Leloirs are far more impressive. Junín 1760, Recoleta 00 54 11 4803 1040 7am-6pm Teatro Colón Reopening on May 25, 2008 after a massive refurbishment, South America's finest lyric theatre will be more beautiful than ever. Opened a century ago, the Colón is a grand Italianate edifice with French flourishes and is loved by singers because of its fine acoustics - Caruso, Callas, Caballé and many of the other greats have performed here. A seat in the stalls is worthy of gala threads, but even in your jeans up in the gods you'll feel ennobled by the experience. Cerrito, corner Tucumán, Centre 00 54 11 4378 7344 www.teatrocolon.org.ar Tue-Sat 10am-8pm, Sun 10am-5pm (guide tours available, many languages) Plaza de Mayo The original city square, first traced in the 16th century, and the site of many a revolution, much rabble-rousing and plenty of riots. The Perons addressed their shirtless faithful from the balcony of the Casa Rosada, on the east side of the plaza, and every Thursday the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo march to protest the 'disappearance' of their sons and daughters. Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco BA has lots of museums but this collection of Spanish American paintings, religious objects and silverware may help you decode Argentina's Latino-Euro-Indian cultural confusion. The beautiful Peruvian-style mansion in which it is housed is also worth a wander. Suipacha 1422, Retiro 00 54 11 4327 0272 Tue-Sun 2-7pm (guided tours available, Spanish only) The River Plate Buenos Aires is said to 'live with its back to the river'. You shouldn't. Take a stroll along the prom of the Costanera Norte (just beyond the city airport) and enjoy the breezes blowing in off the big dulce de leche-coloured river. Snack bars sell choripanes (spicy sausage sandwiches) and beer, and on match day every man has a woman in one hand and a radio in the other. The Costanera Sur (south of Puerto Madero) has an eco reserve, full of wading birds and native pampas bush.